Each Culinary Artist Must Study Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.

Glen Chavez
Glen Chavez

A seasoned journalist with a background in political science, specializing in breaking down complex news into accessible briefs.